[number5]

Why the keeping of the pedal depressed can work I don’t know-told to me by a Healey 100-4 owner when I was having some problems years ago, and it did give results. It may be that the MC has to be removed to thoroughly clean it and install a new seal kit. With the front brakes, have you checked the adjustment clearances, and also if the wheel cylinders in each are returning to their normal closed positions. I do know that the two small holes at the end of the piston must be aligned correctly at the rear face of the inner seal, to enable returning fluid to enter the small recess on the centre of the seal,allowing it to pass through the washer into the cylinders non pressurized section, otherwise it does create a problem.
Cheers-Peter

[number5]

The A40 braking system is the same as the A70 Hampshire, and A90 A90 Atlantic convertible, and it is essential to ensure that the brake shoe mechanical adjustments been undertaken to ensure that the shoe travel is not excessive.

This also applies to the pedal movement, for if this is not fully out when released, it may not be allowing fluid to flow through the non pressurized compartment into the pressurizing side. For the special washer and the internal seal, such can only be replaced with the removal of the screwed cap.

If the piston assembly is not fully returning to the released position when the pedal is fully out, a few mm from the end of the piston, there are two holes on opposite sides of the piston, and with the piston fully released, these holes automatically align with the rear edge of the internal seal to allow flow to pass through the special washer into a small recess in the back of the inter diameter of the seal, aligning with the two holes, that allow fluid into the compression chamber of the master cylinder. If not aligning, it may not be letting sufficient fluid into to be able to compress.

Presuming all the adjustments are correct,and before resorting to the removal of the master cylinder, one thing you might try is what a Healey 100 owner once said to me—-if quick pumping gets pressure, have a suitable piece of timber at hand, and with pressure built up, wedge the pedal down with the timber against the seat frame, and leave it stand overnight. Whilst if sounds odd, he said that he learnt this from other Healey owners, who said that it worked, and it did for him.

Hope this helps in some small way, Cheers

[number5]

 

Hopefully, you will have disconencted the battery until the problem can be investigated thoroughly-if not, do this as a priority.  Having been laid up for so long, there is a possibility that the cut out coil on the voltage control, (generally the right side coil looking at the unit), may have its points stuck, or even welded together.  With these closed,  it will fully drain the battery, as the power will flow through the windings to earth.  If this has occurred, there is a high probability that the soldered connections on the armature may have overheated and melted out the solder from the coils ends to the armature. The adjustment of the cut out points should be in the manual.  Also, slide back the brush cover on the generator and see if you can detect any solder that may have existed from the coils connections on the armature. Hope this helps. Regards.

 

[number5]

Here in Aussie there were two types of front aftermarket kits for A40 Devons/A70 Hampshires/A70 Herefords and A90 Atlantics. One was a pre-fabricated ass’y consisting of a lower plate about 1/4 inch thick with a vertical post on the rear front edge with a mount at the top for a telescopic shock, and for the lower mount a bar was fitted under the bottom of the spring plate. With this, one still needed an original shock, with a good shaft and bushings and filled with perhaps engine oil,  but not having the oil valve.  If the bushing etc had minimal wear, they could be greased, though such could only  be done if greae nipples were installed..

A second kit done away from with the original shock, but it incorporated a cast body that had original shock arms installed in a machined “hub” at the rear of the base plate to take the arm, fitted with grease nipples. The base plate also had the same vertical front post and under spring mounts for telescoping shocks

I still have the original shock type plate/post on my prototype Atlantic convertible, but fitted with origigina shocks that I rebuilt.  This is because the plate that has the post raises the original shock from the chassis and as such produces  a negative chamber, resulting in more stable cornering. The kit which was made with the arms was produced with the same base to main arm shaft height.

The above carbs all had the same shock arm length, which was also the same as the BN1 & 2 Austin Healey 100-4 cars. I have been told that a similar kit to the one that does not use an original shock may have been made for the Healeys, so might be worth following up with the several businesses that supply parts for these models.

Hope this assists.

Regards-Peter.

 

 

 

 

t. 

 

 

. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[number5]

My Hampshire and Atlantics are 7/16″ BSF, and they are most likely the same as on these models. Check with the two parts suppliers your club lists, for they will surely know, although I would think they did not change from end Atlantic production in ’52.

[number5]

My Hampshire and Atlantics are 7/16″ BSF, and they are most likely the same as on these models. Check with the two parts suppliers your club lists, for they will surely know, although I would think they did not change from end Atlantic production in ’52.

[number5]

Hi-My Atlantic gauge suffered from this, and I found that the single wiper arm of the sender resistance had developed a poor contact. This required its removal, and I was able to carefully adjust it to provide a firmer contact when sliding along the resistor. I was effective initially, but over time, on the “full” end reading, has again started to flicker, though not like previously.  Once down to around 3/4 full, settles to read normally.   Also, sometimes, providing a separate earth from one of the studs to the body can also assist, due to a buildup of an insulating layer within the ploat pin to body contact. I have read that some BN1 Healey owners have overcome a flicking needle by adding an earth to the float arm to the internal outer body within the tank, by soldering a flexible lead to the float arm, and securing it to the boby by a self tapper. Hope this assists in some way.

w

 

 

 

 

 

 

[number5]

If you e-mail me, I can send something that might assist.

Regards-Peter—–pjhackney@optusnet.com.au

[number5]

Hi from Aussie,

I have one Austin Atlantic convertible and coupe, as well a Hampshire.  The steering on all is not heavy, though when moving slowly could be considered a tad on the heavy side. Of the three, it has the lightest.  It also is the 5th prototype made, made in 1948.  I acquired in 1998, and the steering box still has the original lubricant, with the box not requiring any attention when I undertook its rebuilding.  I had it out on Sunday jast gone for a short 3-1/2 run each way from Sydney to Orange to attend a car meet, which required driving over our Blue Mountains and the steering was very responsive on the winding mountain roads.  The total mileage travelled thus far is 85101.  The Hampshire has the next lightest, followed by the Atlantic coupe.  Having driven my previous convertible for 475,000 miles, and the coupe I stll have for 300,000 miles, I do not consider them heavy, though when stepping out of my power steerimg modern car, I do notice the difference for a short period of time.

I have a colleague who has a set of the upper steering bearings in a BN1 100/4, who said it made a big difference to his stated heavy steering, yet on my BN1   when I had it, it was extremely light, as it should be, being nominally 950Kg to the A70/90 at over 1300kg.

I inflate to 32psi on the 3 cars, so the suggested 35 will assist. I have a colleague who uses 40 on his Atlantics, and has never mentioned any abnormalities with tyre wear.  Something that made me grin recently was that when I took possession of the Hampshire I acquired to fulfill my late wifes wishes to acquire another car like the one I had when I was 16, On the way home, I was really amazed at the lightness of its steering. The following day, I checked the tyre pressure—–50 PSI.  No wonder its steering was so light.  There was a reason, for the owner who had it was still driving it, at 92 years of age last December, and it made it a tad easier for him.

I would suggest you try the higher 35 pressure mentioned, and also th 40 that one of my colleagues here uses. He has done this for many years,  driving all over Australia in his convertible, often doing club runs of many thousands of miles.

Enjoy your car

 

[number5]

Sorry not to be able to respond any earlier. Please e-mail me on pjhackney@optusnet.com.au    I will send some details that might assist.

Regards-Peter

[number5]

Hi Derek–send me a message at  pjhackney@optusnet.com.au

Regards-Peter

[number5]

In the UK, I think that there is a company that has the name of Holden, or at least in the name the word Holden. Could be worth looking up on the web.

Regards-Peter

[number5]

Hi from Aussie–after speaking to a colleague who once owned a 16, and now has a Hampshire model, he says that although some extremely early Hampshires may have had the same distributer as the 16, his was like the ones I had, where the advance mechanism only moved within a secured body.  If you e-mail me on pjhackney@optusnet.com.au     I can send you some photos of the type I think that is on your engine.

Regards-Peter

 

[number5]

If your 16 is the 4 cylinder engine used in the A70 models, it should be locked in position via a clamping plate. This plate is secured to the block by a single 1/4 BSF hex set screw, and this plate locates on a the underneath side of the main body that is perhaps 1-1/8 inch diameter.  The the plate is split on the outer side, and each side of the split has a furled over piece through wich a 1/4 inch BSF screw passes. The head of the screw is usually drawn against a flat on the furled section sothat when the nut is tightened the screw cannot turn, locking the distributer within the plate.

I would presume that the distributor is one like the early A70’s had where the vacuum advance is attached externally away from the main body, with the rod that is connecting the advance mechanism within the distributor being visible.  If you are still able to drive the car, could be that the plate securing screw is loose. Perhaps take a photo and post it.  Hope this assists you.  Regards-Peter

 

 

[number5]

Can it be presumed that the car will not start?  Do all the light work.  With the voltage,  as a start, what is the battery voltage with the engine switched off, and then running.

Regards-Peter

[Author]

Posts