[number5]

Malcolm- Two things I forgot to mention.

Although the bearings are oil lubricated, I always pack the rears just like the front bearings. Do this after installing the seals and bearings, and it will ensure that they will be well lubed from the start

With the nut, not sure what you use to remove and tighten it, but I have made a special socket. I read on the Counties pages at one time about a special motor bike spanner that is the correct size. Perhaps you could check this with the counties spares people. I always use a general thread lock compound on the nut as well. Don’t forget to bed the washer tab onto one of the nut flats, or perhaps even two of them.

One final thing is to check the tightness of the studs. On both A70 and 90 wheel studs, over the years I have had these loosen. Use two base and 7/16″ BSF??? (perhaps not the same as early A70/90’s) and with one nut flush with the end of the stud, place the stud onto a steel plate and use a very blunt chisel, carefully spread the groove at the rear of the stud. Perhaps though, later model may have had the rear of the stud welded. This process should also be used to check the tightness
of the front studs, though in 50 years I have only ever experienced the loosening with the rears, because of the “driving” force

All the best-Peter

[number5]

Hi there Malcolm,
If you are going to change the outer axle flange seals, have a good look at the rear bearing seals. Could be prudent to replace them as well. As for the bearings protruding out past the bearing housing, that should not happen with the correct numbered bearing. A70 and A90 did not have the small section O rings that are often associated with modern seal kits purchased, which are fitted around the groove created by the rounded lip of the outer bearing diameter. For 50 years, all I have I have done when replacing the axle flange gasket is.if the seal is still OK, wash it clean with turps, dry, then apply some non hardening gasket sealer.

With the new rear seal, when I did not have my press, I used a flat bit of steel placed over it, gently tapping it in, with the outer studs on hardwood timber.

With new bearings, never hit the bearing with a hammer, always use a brass dolly to tap it back into place, only applying tapping the bearing on the outer case.

As for the main differential pinion seal, BEFORE you remove the nut, the tension of which is crucial, and on A70/90 diffs, this is only around 6~8 INCH LBS FORCE, ensuring that excessive crush is not applied to the two tapered rollers on the pinion shaft. This does not include any drag created by the lip of the seal on the tail shaft hub.I suspect that it would be similar to an A40, but you need to check in your manual.

Before starting, spray the thread with some “nut release agent” to loosen any binding, giving it time to travel into the nut. After peeling back the lock tab washer that secures on one of the nut flats, then using your brass dolly, gently tap on each of the nut flats, progressively going around in a circular motion.

Then, starting at 2 inch lbs, check the force required to LOOSEN the nut. At this setting, the trip on the tension wrench should activate immediately when applied. Then increase by 1 inch lb settings, until the nut cracks loose, which should not be more than 10 inch lbs. Note the setting.

Before refitting the nut and tightening, thoroughly clean the splines on the pinion and tail shaft hub, and both the pinion and nut threads. Make sure the lock tab nut washer and mating surfaces are both smooth and even, and apply a smear of grease to them. Also apply a smear of grease around the surface where the seal seats on the tail shaft hub. If needed, adjust the spline tabs on the lock tab washer for a better fit using long nose plyers, then fit it and the nut. I then increase the increase the release setting by 0.5 inch lbs, and tighten the nut. Secure the washer tab against one of the nut flats.

The reason for the grease is to ensure that the least resistance is felt by the nut. Even when doing my own rear assembly on the bench a few months ago, even the pressure of the seal had an affect.

I have used the above a couple of times over the years, when doing an “in car” diff seal replacement. Hope it assists in some small way.

All the best-Peter

[number5]

Hi Malcolm,
On A70 and 90’s, atop the breather there is a screw driver slot, and using a wide but stubby driver, they screw out. I think they are either 5/16 or 3/8 inch BSF.

If that fails, there may be enough room to use a pair of multi-grips on the stem. Just be careful, for I know that at some time around late 53/54, A70 Herefords had plastic ones fitted, and they can break quite easily.

Cheers-peter

[number5]

Hi there Jiri,

If your carby problem is still hassles, have a look at the following article on web address. It might give you an indication on something you may not have yet checked.:–Id10.awardspace.com/bay/carb.htm

Regards-Peter.

[number5]

Hi there Jiri,

Have you considered to strip down and clean all of the carby components, especially the jets. Seems like it could be the main jets that might be partially blocked.

Cheers-Peter

[number5]

Hi Dave,
Glad to read that your clutch problems are resolved.

How did you go though with the gear selection? This is often caused by the stretching of the cable, and may just need a minor adjustment of the length on the lower selector. That itself can be frustrating, as when the adjustment is tightened, it can create a “pinch groove” in the cable, and when trying to take up any stretch, the clamping section can tend to slip back into the previous indentation on the cable.

One other problem can be with the outer cable case. I had was an occasion where the outer cable casing fractured at the chassis post, beneath the nut where the case joins the threaded section. When this occurred, the tendency was for the case to move to the drivers side with the natural tension exerted on it, and this prevented reverse from being selected, as well as making normal gear changing very hard. on the chassis.

I once purchased a spare box, and its cable case had completely worn through at the side of the box, and the case was full of hard set dirt that was mixed with oil, making the movement very stiff. I mentioned this to another owner here, and he said that his case had worn through like this, and he had repaired it by cutting it into two pieces, cleaning it out and then rejoining it with a brass tube connector.

On the same topic, an 83 year old owner who has restored an A90 convertible, happens to be a specialist Borg Warner gearbox technician, and he initially had an adjustment problem. He added a spring to the bottom lever, fitted to the left chassis side, to ensure the lever could be pushed all the way back to the left side when this occurs with gear changing. I also now have this on my car, more as a safe guard than anything.

However, when investigating the problem of gear changing, he found that in the internal selector gate lever that positions the selectors, the spring loaded point in the gear stop plate was not engaging into the indentation on the gate lever, which is the neutral position, which can lead to problems. He has subsequently devised a “fix” for this, which is a much more robust type of spring loaded pin.

Having a spare gate selector, I checked it and did observe that the original spring loaded pin did not engage the divot in it, passing about 1/2mm to the side of it. It is important to have the neutral position selected when setting the adjustment, and this does does that. Without it engaging properly, could also attribute to making adjustments harder to undertake. I would expect that the your column A40 box would be the same.

In my old C/V, when I purchased it, it was fitted with an Austin 16 floor change box, which I undertook over 200,000 miles in, before replacing it with an original A90 column change. On that box, the gear stop plate had no spring loaded pin, and was never fitted with one. I would conclude that at some point, Austin had become aware of a problem, otherwise it would never have been fitted with the spring loaded pin for the neutral position.

Anyway-hope all is well. Cheers-Peter

[number5]

Hi there Dave,
Hope you have resolved your clutch problem, and what the actual cause was.
Regards-Peter.

[number5]

Hi there Dave,
Just wondering how you are progressing with your clutch problem. I did send you another note to your mailbox, though not sure if it reached you. Try sending another one here to see if it transmits OK.
Cheers-Peter.

[number5]

Bob-Hi,

I may be able to assist with some information if you would care to respond by e-mail.

Peter.

[number5]

Dave-Hi,

Sorry about your continuing woes. From memory, the raised centre section of the clutch plate faces towards the gearbox. In around the other way, it would be ni on impossible to engage it.

Also, is yours an hydraulic pedal movement, or mechanical linkage. With the A70/90, which has a carbon thrust bearing, the gap should not exceed 1/16 inch. Can you say what freeplay gap youset the adjustment at. Not ever having owned any Austins with hydraulic operation for the clutch, I am not sure how they set the freeplay gap. Are you able to send me the manual notes on this. My e-mail is pjhackney@optus.net.au

In your note, you mentioned changing the plate, housing and bearing. I presume the housing means the pressure plate.

Cheers—hear from you soon.

Peter.

[number5]

Hi Malcolm,

In my experience, some early Austins had BSF threads, but I think UNF became the standard, though I don’t know when the change was made. I went to put front hoses on my A90 coupe, and knowing that I had a new pair, I was surprised to find out that they were actually A40, and both ends had BSF threads. The correct ones had to be 3/8 UNF.

If the reason for changing the pipe is one of physical damage, simply take it along to a brake shop and have a new one made the same. Here in Aussie, many of the hydraulic hose shops are also licenced brake fitters, and keep a good stock of fittings. They will know what is the same as your old ones, and also ensure that the end of pipe furling is correct. There are both single, and double furls.

Speaking of old, if there is no visible damage to the pipe, check that the hose is not blocked. Over years, the rubber can get become soft, and swell to completely restrict the flow.

With my A90, there were no front hoses “off the shelf” for the model, though MGB hoses were the same.

Hope this assists.

Regards-Peter

[number5]

‘Evening Dave,
Should have mentioned that when fitting a new clutch, there may also be a problem with the pressure plate, in that its springs may be the problem.

In addition, if your own pressure plate is still OK springwise, because of possibility that a worn clutch plate rivets could have scored its surface. These rivets can also do the same to the flywheel face, and it too may need grinding.

Another thing to look carefully at is the flywheel surface. Although it may be still quite smooth an not affected rivets etc, it can develop hair line cracks that can nearly be invisible to the naked eye, with the heat of use, can open up and start to shave the lining of the clutch plate. With A70’s and 90’s, I have experienced these cracks that a 0.005 feeler gauge can be inserted into. Such though, to my experience, is more attune to a vehicle used in heavy traffic, where the possibility of riding the clutch is more likely to occur. With my A90 coupe, over 150,000 miles were done in peak hour driving, and in another A90 convertible, over 250,000 miles in the same type of traffic conditions.

If I can assist in any way, let me know.

Regards-Peter.

[number5]

Dave-It does seem like the box will need to be removed. As for the gear changing, from your description it would seem to me that the cable from the steering column post to the gearbox lever on the underside of the box has been causing some of your problems. I think your A40 has the same set-up as the A70’s and 90’s.

Your description of reverse problems indicates that the cable is a significant part of your problem. The cables can stretch, and although an adjustment might only require taking up slack as little as 1/32 inch to get the selector back where it belongs, because the clamping fixture on the lower lever can, and does distort the cable, it can be an awkward and time consuming job to get it right. Perhaps the Counties Spares might have a new one, or can advise where you can get one.

When you get the box out to do the clutch, remember to take off the side cover to be able to check the gear teeth. Don’t lose the thrust spring of the cross shaft as you lift the cover off. Using a good torch. you should be able to visually check each cog to see if there are any chipped or missing teeth. Although a little hard to view each some clearly, each can be view sufficiently to check their condition.

Cheers-Peter

[number5]

Hi Dave–In both A70’s and 90’s I have owned, with the breaking of a tooth, or teeth, there has never been any rattling. My first inclination is that it sounds a bit like a collapsing clutch plate. After the “happening”, were you able to change gears normally.
Regards-Peter.

[number5]

Hi-brazing certainly is a good means to provide a permanent repair. However, before applying the required heat, I strongly advise to obtain at least a flat piece of 4″ x 4″ x 1/2″ angle, then using every bolt hole in the manifold, ensure that each section is secured to the angle to minimise the chance of distortion. The crack area must be buffed back to bright metal, with the crack slightly V’ed if possible. If a brazing torch is not available, still bolting the manifold to the angle for stability, cast welding rods may be able to be used. Again, the V prep should be put in, and before welding, gently warm the manifold before welding. Allow to cool naturally. I have successfully used both methods over the years.

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