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Hi-anyone interested in an A70 33/8 diff can contact me—-pjhackney@optusnet.com.au for I have several. The crown and pinions seem to be are OK, but each would need to be stripped down, checked and reset. Perhaps new bearings would also be needed. I have serviced my own A90 coupe diff, and also a spare, all from a batch that I purchased a fe years ago. I am also told that the crown and pinions can be stripped out of the A70/90 case and inserted “straight” into the A40 one. Whilst this might be possible, I don’t know if this is correct or not, never having the need to try.
As I am in Aussie, if this is possible, it might be feasible to strip them out and send them as parts because of freight costs. If anyone can verify this, I would be happy enough to do one as a trial, with cost of the crown and pinion at AUD$200 plus shipping cost via Australian Pack and Send, whom I have used previously with excellent results to ship A90 parts to the UK. The cost of shipping a complete diff would expensive due to the weight.
Happy enough to discuss with anyone interested—-Cheers-Peter
Hi there Mike–Whilst the seats are unique to the sports, a colleague remade A70 seats for his A90 convertible. As the A40 ones are folding like the A90’s are, I would think that there would be a good chance that they could be altered from A90 ones. Where in Aussie are you located. I am currently overseas, but may be able to assist when I get back. E-mail me on pjhackney@optusnet.com.au
Cheers-PeterHi again from Aussie,
I would agree with David that unless you intend to do some really “serious” driving, your best road to travel would be to opt for the original type shockers. Here in Australia, there were three telescopic conversions types that could be obtained, two using the original shocks to facilitate the top arms, (needing the internals to be de-activated and using the original main rear arm pin), and one where there was an arm assembly having a main pin that could be greased. Unfortunately though, these days, they are ultra rare.
In my first A90, a coupe, I travelled 300,000 miles, using three sets of Girlings, finishing in 1981 with a set Armstrongs. I have just rebuilt those to use in the rebuilding of the coupe.
My next A90, a convertible, undertaking 475,000 miles, if my memory serves me correctly, for the first half of that distance I went through either 3 or 4 sets of Armstrongs, and 2 Girlings, then I switched to the telescopics, only changing them shortly before parting with the car. These were the ones with the greaseable main pin, and the base to centre height of the pin was the same as an original shock, with the telescoping tower attachment projecting upwards from it.
When I acquired my prototype A90 convertible, in 1951, due to the extremely poor Australian country roads of that time, with only a few thousand miles on the clock, its original owner had them converted to the telescopics, and this was the type that used the original Armstong shocks, with the valving removed, though stilled filled with oil to lubricate the main pin. However, in this arrangement, the telescoping shock shock attachment tower was formed as part of a base plate that went under the original Armstrong shock, thus it resulted in a negative camber. This was a bonus, as it improved the handling significantly.
However, when I restored the proto suspension back in 2003, I retained the tower plate, but also reverted back to standard Armstrongs, which I rebuilt myself. I could have fitted newer gas shocks, as a colleague has done, and these are a further improvement to the handling.
These days, our roads are vastly different to that of yesteryear, and the Armstrongs can be set for either soft, or firmer ride. Not sure what company does them in the UK, but take Davids advise, talk to the Counties parts people, as well as being able to provide the new rubbers etc, I am sure they will also be able to provide you information on those who do shock repairs.
Cheers-Peter.
Hi-There is a probability the the Healey 100-4 telescopic kit may suit the Somerset, though it still requires a shock for the arms out to the top trunnion. It would to be thoroughly examined. The shock would still need to be filled with oil so as to lubricate the main rear “swivel” pin, & the valve is omitted to negate any dampening.
With the kit, there is a plate onto which the tower is included for the top telescopic mounting, and this automatically invokes a negative camber. Some don’t like this, and then have to address this. Personally, I think its a good thing, and my prototype A90 Atlantic convertible was fitted with one of these kits back in the mid 50’s when the Armstrongs failed. I have since rebuilt the Armstrongs, but I have also re-fitted the telescopic mounting plate to retain the negative camber, for it makes the handling so much better.
Years ago, there were kits that contained the arms coupled with a rear “swivel” pins, but these days, they are even rarer than hens teeth. These were manufactured so o as to retain the original positive camber angle.
I am currently rebuilding my ’52 A90 Atlantic coupe, and have, for the moment at least, have again fitted Armstrongs, though not yet with the plate beneath them that would create the negative camber. This might be undertaken though before I put it back on the road.
Not sure of what the cost of getting front shocks rebuilt is in your part of the world, but here, they can be around AUD$400 a pair. I am fortunate enough to be able to rebuild my own. There are two companies in the US who I know have supplied shocks to people here, but the problem is in having to ship over ones old bodies, as from here, that is costly, so they paid the extra for not doing so, which I think was still cheaper than paying the freight of ones own back to the States.
There was a chap in the UK recently advertising fully reconditioned shocks for Austins, and his price seemed to be quite reasonable.
Hope this assists in some small way.
Regards-Peter.
Hi from Aussie—Try the web site of Old Era Auto Parts in Australia, operated by Peter Jackson. He may be able to assist
Cheers-Peter H.Hi-if you e-mail me your shape, I may6 be able to assist.
pjhackney@optusnet.com.au
Cheers-PeterHi Malcolm,
Speaking with a fellow owner this morning, he suggested that you could follow this means to change your leaking seal, which he used a few years ago,and since has driven around 20,000 miles:-
1—Jack up the car and chock the wheels.
2—Remove the rear diff connection bolts and drop off the tail shaft.
3—Mark with precision a small grind spot on the front of the nut and matching points on the shaft and front face of the hub. A centre punch point could be used, may on the hardened shaft, it may nit indent adequately enough to see.
4—Carefully undo the nut counting the turns to do so.
5—Before removing the hub, ensure the matching marks are still visible. perhaps hi-lite them with a white permanent marker.
6—Remove the seal plate carrier and replace the seal.
7—Lightly oil the hub seal area and refit the seal plate and screws. Do not tighten.
8—Refit the hub with the alignment marks, and wiggle the seal so that it centrally aligned on the hub as best possible.
9—Tighten the seal plate screws.
10–Refit the lock tab washer and nut, screw in the exact number of turns tighten to match the marked points.
11–Fold over the locking washer flat onto the nut.All the best-Peter
Malcolm–The 6~8 inch lbs is applicable to a differential that has already be set up. Also, this is the figure that does not include the resistance of the seal. In the video of the Ford diff, the chap uses a bar across two of the flange nuts, which when replacing a seal in-situe, does not need to be done. In the video, the pinion is fitted without the crown ass’y. When you are replacing the seal, the pinion teeth will be seated against the crown teeth, holding it against turning, with the handbrake on.
As I originally mentioned, I used a figure slightly above the 6~8 inch lbs so as to include for the resistance of the new seal.
Obviously, with all parts thoroughly clean, smear some grease on the threads, as well behind the nut to ensure that the least resistance is offered.
It would be good if you could talk to a company that does such repairs, and ask them if they would be able to comment on how to undertake a seal change, without the need to remove the whole assembly. I would not be at all offended if some one was to say “he is talking rubbish”, as this is the way I have done them over many years.
All the best-Peter
Malcolm-see if you can log on to YOUTUBE, and look for “How to set up Ford 8.8″ Differential VLOG#15”.
Although not a Austin, it is very similar, showing how to achieve the inch lb setting for that diff.
Hope it assists. If you want, send me a note to my mailbox, pjhackney@optusnet.com.au
it could be easier to correspond.Regards-Peter
Hi Malcolm,
Sorry if I have confused you, but with my A90 coupe differential, it is the same as the Healey 100-4, and also an A70, with the preload of the two interposing roller bearings not exceeding 6~8 inch lbs. This is the setting I have used in past years, without any hassles thus far. This is achieved by tightening the nut with a 5 lb weight on a string, suspended on a 2 inch radius on the shaft, which, with this weight, is just sufficient to allow the the shaft to turn.
Were you able to check the loosening tension as I previously mentioned, for this should give an indication, although its not an exact reading. If not yet done, clean around the area of the shaft where the nut is, then pry back the folded tab/s from the face of the nut. Spray with an appropriate “nut release” agent and allow time for it to act.
Then, use a, INCH LB tension wrench, and starting from perhaps 2 inch lbs, see if this moves the nut. Increase the setting until you get a figure that actually starts the nut to turn.
Once, when several thousand miles from home, I replaced the seal in a friends garage, without any means of checking tensions, and I only had to hand pressure to release, and tighten the nut.
Please though, I would suggest you discuss this with others. Where are, in the UK, as I might be able pass on a name.
Regards-Peter.
Hi Malcolm,
Trust the threads will clean out OK. If you have a spare old nut, once you have addressed the threads with the file as best as possible, If it is still hard to get a good nut to screw on without excessive force, with the bearing housing removed, one approach to ease the problem could be to place the spare nut in a vice holding it on the inner and outer sides, then cut a slot on one of the flats. keeping it in the vice to ensure the nut does not warp, gently open it up using a narrow drift, sufficiently enough so that it can be screwed loosely over the axle housing thread.Ensuring that the cut across the nut threads is clean, apply some grease on the housing thread, and place it at the rear of the axle housing thread, and using a clamp, close the nut so that is a snug, but not too tight a fit onto the axle threads, then screw the nut off. This acts as a chaser, starting from good thread.
This has been effective on a number of occasions when working in the field, and not having access to appropriate thread dies and die nuts.
When you are ready to fit the nut, I would suggest to use some good quality thread cleaning agent, and thread lock compound. When folding the lock washer onto he flat of the nut, see if you have a “heeled” bar, that can be sharpened to get behind the washer to start the bend, the a appropriate drift to seat them home.
Were you able to get a proper socket, or nut spanner. Whatever you do, resist the temptation to use a chisel to tighten them.
“Austineering” is good fun.
Cheers-Peter
H there Malcolm,
Just viewed your note about the removal of the previous posting was undertaken without any dramas. Are you able to advise if there was any technical hassles arising from it. I would not like to think there was any “virus” that may have been transmitted from my lap top. As a precaution, I have just undertaken a scan check and it all was OK.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Regards-Peter.
Hi again Malcolm–these are listed in the service manual, which, if you don’t have, can usually be found on e-bay. Perhaps the counties spares might have them for sale.
What were initially listed though are most likely not now available, but a modern alternative should be. I only have what were originally listed for A70/90 models home models, but I expect they might be the same. Usually, the suppliers listed several brands for each of the various items. Gearbox—–Essolube 40, and Differential—–Esso Expee Compound 140
However, any modern alternative MUST be suitable for the “YELLOW” metals used in these components.
Hope this helps–Peter.
Hi there Malcolm,
Generally, these are BSF, and I have come across sizes from 1/8 inch to 5/16 inch. If though you are seeking to replace any that were in original Austin parts, such might be difficult to acquire. Being in the UK, perhaps such thread sizes could be more readily available.
Should it be replacement ones for tie rod ends, if the tie rod end has already been replaced at an earlier time, they might even be type of “self-tapper” type thread, as I have experience here on occasions.
Whilst some spares places here would not bother to check, if you take the required thread with you, they might have a vernear and thread gauge to enable it to be checked.
Good luck-Peter
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