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All of the grilles on ‘our’ cars are made from an aluminium/zinc alloy marketed under the name Mazak, but also, confusingly known as Zamak.
It has a tendency to become pitted, and is difficult to re-chrome well. given the pitting.
I have recently seen examples on TV restoration programmes of a form of ‘chrome’ spray, which can be applied to Zamak, and appears to give pretty good results.
Here’s an example of one company that does this: http://www.chromespray.co.uk/
Hello
I don’t have a Somerset, so I can’t recommend a specific spot to put the pump, but things to consider are these.
Firstly, I assume you are fitting this at a point in the fuel line before it reaches the existing mechanical pump, and having your new electric pump pushing the fuel through the existing pump and onward to the carburettor.
If so, then the only things to consider are a) to mount it securely where it is protected to a great extent from any road spray or dirt, b) to make sure it is not near a heat source (i.e. away from the exhaust), c) that any added or re-routed fuel lines are not going to chafe against anything and are securely fitted and not leaking, and d) ensure that the pump is matched to the polarity of your car, which for most of us is +ve earth.
I’ve had an electric pump fitted to my 16 and it’s certainly made a difference.
I believe the originals were Champion N5 plugs. The club can supply them.
See page 8 of the parts catalogue.
I’ve now looked it up, and confirmed that the Devon was 5.14, and the Somerset was 5.28.
The diff. from the A70 Hereford (4.12:1) has been used in other applications where the 1622cc engine was fitted – – they’re not easy to come by though.
Have you got the shoes adjusted up too close to the drums? It might be worth backing them off a little bit and seeing if this improves matters.
Sounds like the water pump has failed internally. The club offers an exchange unit.
See the parts list here
I’m not sure why he would need to know how much the valves open – as long as he is using valves of the right size, the correct pushrods and has adjusted the tappets correctly, surely that would be all he needs to know, wouldn’t it?
As for as I can see it was previously owned by a member in the South of England. But you may have bought it from him of course…! Prior to that owned by someone in the South West.
Daniel,
You’ll need a set of Whitworth spanners and sockets – readily available online and from the sort of tool suppliers one sees at events such as large classic car shows. The club supplies a reasonable range of parts – most standard service items are available -some on an exchange basis. You can see the club’s spares catalogue here:
Oils, fluids etc are readily available – I’d recommend Morris oils – they do a wide range of classic oils at reasonable prices – other manufacturers are, of course, available.
I don’t think anyone ever scanned an A40 Devon manual into pdf – I do recall a member scanning the A40 Somerset one some years ago. Devon ones are often to be found on eBay for reasonable prices – or even advertised on the ‘Sales & Wanted’ page here. It might also be worth checking with the club’s Spares Secretary – occasionally people give second hand copes to the club.
Hope this helps…
Dave,
According to the title of the thread it’s a 1950 Devon. Not sure if that’s enough – as you say it’s amazing how many shades of black there are!
It may well be worth swapping the door latch for another. Graham Potts, the club’s used spares rep., may well have one he could find for you. There would very likely be one at the barn in Bedfordshire, but unfortunately that can’t be visited at present.
Hello Nick,
The Club has a DVLA rep. who is able to offer help and advice in this respect. This service is available to members, and there is typically a small charge, as there can be quite some effort required in getting the necessary evidence together for DVLA.
Hello Des,
I’d suggest running it until it is hot and stalls and then immediately checking if you have any fuel in the carburettor bowl (taking all necessary care not to get any fuel in contact with anything hot!). If there’s none, then fuel will almost certainly be your problem.
The heat from the engine can be enough to cause evaporation problems, and the fuel pumps (one way valves, diaphragms etc.) can fail quite slowly with the pump getting less effective as time goes on. I’ve recently had similar problems with my 16 – which now has an electric pump which is so much better.
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