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If by chance you have an old belt, if if cracked, take it to a parts supplier, and they should be able to measure it on a proper belt checker. Also, you could cut the belt and measure the extended length. I think it is a A series belt.
Hope it helps. Cheers-Peter.
Hi–if reamers cannot be obtained, to reach the desired bush diameter, a small brake cylinder honer can be used in the same manner a main piston bore is linished. When the new bushes are pressed in, they will be parallel, and with carefull use of the honing tool, and some fine paste, the soft bush material is easily be able to be removed. Do the top first, and I would suggest initially to a tight, but turnable fit with oil. Then, after undertaking the bottom bush, with the top bush allowing the swivel shaft to be entered into the assembly, the bottom shaft section can then also be gradually fitted into its bush, again with a tight, turnable fit with oil. Knowing that the top bush was deliberately tight, once the bottom bush is first able to accept its section of the shaft, with the swivel pin removed, the top bush can then be given a final “clean” to ensure it clearance is free and correct, then with this done, the swivel pin can then be again re-inserted from the base to check its clearance and be adjusted accordingly. A good cleaning at the end is necessary to ensure all grinding paste is removed. Done with care, it does work.
Hope I have explained this adequately enough.
All the best-Peter.
Steve–A message came through with your request of how to install a sports windscreen, but alas, whilst I don’t think it would be too hard, I have not had to do such on a sports. I trust that someone from within the Counties organisation will respond to you. If not, message me back and I will see what I can find out for you.
Regards–Peter.
Hi there Robin,
The last time I stripped a similar carb was back in 1965, which was on a ’49 Hampshire, so my memory is a little faded. Since 1967 though, I have had A90 Atlantics that have twin SU’s. However, I do have ’54 Hereford engine on a test rig that I use for checking A70/90 gearboxes after reassembling them for testing. This engine only has around 35,000 miles on it, and the carby is original, which I think would be the same, and possibly pretty much like that on the Sommerset. This engine can sit for many months in between starts, and when needed, apply the choke, and in a few seconds it is away.
From memory, in the base of Hampshire carby there is a small ball valve, and if the carb has been stripped for cleaning, and it is also supposed to have the ball valve, is it in place. May I suggest to get an appropriate container ready with a block in its center, then to run your engine for several minutes, then switch off, and immediately remove the carb with the bowl full, sitting it on the block in the container. Such should allow you to see if there is a leaking problem.
I have a fellow Atlantic owner, who in his younger days owned around 15~20 A40’s, though not sure if it included any Somersets. I have phoned him for some thoughts on your problem, but he has not thus far responded. I will let you know if he can offer anything that might be a cause of your problem. I do think though that the check I have described should at least give some indication of a leak.
Hope it assists in some small way.
Happy Austineering,
Peter Hackney.
If there are water drops escaping from under the head washer/nut, it is virtually guaranteed that the space around the stud will be filled with water,and it is best that it is rectified.
If you are able to confirmt hat there is not leakage into the cylinder bore, there should not be any reason to remove the head, though there would need to be space atop the offending stud to fit a locknut to enable the stud to be removed, and in my humble opinion it would be best to remove the stud, and seal the thread with teflon tape as well using a suitable liquid sealant.
Have the engine cold, drain the ccolant, remove only the offending stud, using a locknut, clean out the stud chamber, apply teflon tape and liquid sealant, re-install the stud, then torque to the the nut to the required setting, then left stand for at least 48 hours before refilling with coolant. Start the engine andbring tooperating temperature.
Check with others for views on my suggestion, though it is my view that the risk of removing just one stud is very minimal to cause any furthe problem.
Cheers-Peter.
Hi there John,
In addition to the things that David has covered, if your box is constructed the same as Atlantic boxes, if the cam follower has been tightened a little too much, even if eased off slightly, due to overtightening, the cam follower ground face that runs on the face of the main worm may have developed worn “flat” spot, making the steering harder. Also, having rebuilt a number Atlantic boxes over the past 50 years, the small diameter ball races that are on either end of the worm have often been found to be split literally in half, and the bearing faces where these run can also be affected by “gawling”. Whether or not the gawling of the surface commences with wear of the balls, resulting in the splitting, or the initial breaking up of the balls resulted in the bearing surface damage, I have not established. Fortunately, the boxes I have done have all been able to be returned to active service, having been able to obtain new balls for the the top and bottom of the main cam, and also new cam followers. A90 cam followers are getting a bit scarce, and if yours are similar, they may also be.
If you decide to dismantle, it would be interesting to read what you find.
All the best-Peter.
If you can e-mail me on pjhackney@optusnet.com.au I may be able to assist.
Cheers-Peter.
Hi from Aussie–I do have one. Please e-mail me pjhackney@optusnet.com.au
Regards-Peter.
Hi Robin–Mike has covered the checking of the speedo very well-nothing more to add on that. With the gear change, if when laying up the car the gear change was OK, it still should be OK. Is the selection problem one when standing, or when actually moving. Having first had had A70, and then A90 Atlantics, with the latter for 50 years, the gear selection adjustment can be a fair bugger. Sometimes, a mere adjustment of the outer cable thread section down under the box, either in or out 1/4mm can make a difference. In my coupe, travelling 300,00 miles, and 475,000 I have found that over time, the inner cable can stretch, and as such, on some occasions, the tightening has solved the problem. Other times has resulted in the cable needing to be removed, cleaning of it and the outer case, then re-installing and starting all over again.
With your cable, are you able to spray some good old WD40 down the tube to give it a bit of lubrication
Here, a colleague with A90’s believes he has found a common problem with the C lever in the box, in that there is a spring loaded “divot” that locates into a neutral position on the lever, which in some instances, does not locate at all. He has modified his current box, and has tested it with the rear wheels off the ground, but has yet to do the same on the road.
Just remember, if adjusting the thread, measure the existing distance from the inside of the bracket, or the outside, to a set point, so that you can revert back to the original setting should you want to. Also, make only minute changes at a time
Good Luck-Peter.
If the cork seal has square corners, perhaps try to see if you can get a new modern material one the same shape made. For the A90 Atlantic hood and window piston seals, I have had these made at an Hydraulic Seals manufacturer. Although piston rod seals don’t rotate, and the steering peg does, it is not a fast rotating seal, and being slow turning, may well be able to be used for the application.
Some time ago, I did a repair of an Atlantic box, which is the same as an A70 casting, and it had part of the seal edge broken out. Being sufficient gap between the pitman arm and the bottom of the alloy box casting, I machined a small extension cap to take a modern seal, with the top section extending up the bottom of the casting slightly. In this extension, I used three pointed grub screws at 120 deg centers to secure it to the box. So with a new seal in the bottom of the extension, and some silicone gasket seal on the mating surface of the extension to the box, it was secured in position. Although nothing would be as good as machining a proper seal seat, even one of the purpose made seals might be sufficient to do the job. What is the actual size of the cork seal, and how is it held in position.
Hi-doing each separately, warm gently with a hair dryer, then apply a squirt of good old WD40 into the pin hole, and on the shaft behind the barrel. Do all, then leave them for a while. Check to see if the pins will then be able to be pressed in. If not, use another small squirt into the pin. If it does depress in, it has to be held in whilst applying outward pressure. Try not to apply any side pressure as such may crack the barrel of the knob.
Good luck-Peter.
Hi–PeteJS is correct, using just the original reservoir and 2 persons. Firstly though, are you using the correct type of fluid, such as a Dot 3 for original type seals and rubbers. The brand should not matter, as long as it is not a modern one that can affect seals. Fill it to just under the shoulder, and presuming the reservoir is on the drivers side, start at the rear left, then rear right, front left and finally front right.
Connect a short length of clear hose tightly of the bleeder, into a clear bottle with about an inch of fluid with the hose immersed to the bottom. Then using several slow pumps of the pedal, even if it goes to the floor, hold it down, then release the bleeder and observe the result in the bottle-bubbles may not initially be evident, then nip the bleeder tight. Repeat at least two more times, even if bubbles are not seen.
Then in turn, shift to the right rear, left front and finally the right front. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the bottle. By the time all 4 are done, progress should have been made.
Perhaps a second round might be needed, which if after that, should the pedal still go to the floor, something would seem to be amiss. As the supply is from the master cylinder, it might simply need a new kit, or an overhaul. If that has to be done, ask your brake repairer about getting it lined with a stainless sleeve.
Be sure not to mix modern fluids in systems with the older fluids.
Happy Austineering-Peter.
I have seen one of these cranks with just blank holes, but do not know about the assembly. Perhaps the fastenings are supposed to be inserted before ass’y, and if they are hex. Hd fastenings, perhaps nuts could be used behind the boss. If a lock tab plate is used between pairs of bolts, that still can be done, with a heavy duty spring washer behind the nut, as well as an appropriate nut threadlock solution. However, if the fastenings are supposed to be inserted before ass’y, they may have round heads with a flat on one side to prevent turning when being tightened. This type of fastening is used on a number of Austin tail shaft connections.
Hopefully, someone in the Counties Organisation will answer your question with the correct information.
Hope this assists in some way.
Cheers-Peter
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