[widd0wss0n]

Thanks mike, I have ordered one of those belts.

[widd0wss0n]

Thanks peter, I will try that.

[widd0wss0n]

The belt that was on it is too big, it doesn’t sit properly in the pulley’s and its too long. I think the previous owner just put on whatever he had lying about. I would just order one from parts but its closed so was going to get one on the net is I had the correct length and width.

Any help would be appreciated, event the make and model of one on some ones car.

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your reply, I have not annealed a copper gasket before so your advice on how hot to go is a big help. I will check the head and block for distortion also, I did check this last time and I am sure it was fine.

In  you opinion does it sound like the the gasket is the cause of water in the oil?

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

After some more reading I think my problem stems from me not annealing the copper head gasket before fitting so it’s to hard to seal properly and is now leaking. Does this sound like a reasonable cause to water in my oil? Any advice would be appreciated.

Also from what I have read it is possible to reuse the copper head gasket as long as it is annealed by heating it to cherry red then quenching it in cold water. This will make the gasket soft. Does this sound correct?

Thanks

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

I bought Castrol XXL SAE 40 from Classic Oils.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Ian,

It’s roughly 270mm in length and diameter is 115mm.

Hope this helps.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Peter,
Sorry I did not get the notes you sent to my mailbox.

I had another new clutch kit sent up from club spares and fitted it on Saturday, clutch is working fine now. Just can’t get it into reverse gear, think that is a problem with the linkage because the selector cable seems to be tight. I did get it into reverse once but then the gear leaver was stuck in reverse, I had to lift the C leaver under the bonnet to release the gear leaver.

My original problem of the rattle in the bell housing was caused by a spring coming out of the clutch plate, the fast idle is an unrelated issue, think it may be the head bolts needing tightened after a recent cylinder head gasket change.

Second problem, after fitting the first new clutch, was the release leaver plate on the clutch assembly was too low resulting in the release bearing fork rubbing against the clutch assembly when the clutch pedal was fully depressed. I compared the newest clutch assembly to the first one I was sent and the release leaver plate was about 13mm higher on the newest one. The first one was reconditioned by the looks of it and must not have been gauged\adjusted properly.

Thanks for all your help. I didn’t have a clue about gearbox\clutch at the start, hence some silly questions and stabbing in the dark, however I feel like a veteran now lol.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Removed my gearbox again today and it turns out the fork that holds the clutch release bearing is rubbing on the clutch cover assembly. Think the cover assembly has not been gauged property or is faulty.

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Peter,

Tried to email you but your email system rejected my email for security reasons. Here is the extract from the manual.

Running Adjustments
The only necessary adjustment is to restore the
free movement of the clutch pedal (i.e. movement of
the pedal before the release bearing comes into contact
with the release lever plate and commences to withdraw
the clutch). As the driven plate linings wear, the free
movement of the pedal will gradually decrease, thus
tending to prevent the clutch fully engaging and permitting
too great a movement on withdrawal. This free
movement must be maintained at the correct amount,
which is approximately 3/4-in. (19. 05 mm.).
Adjustment is made by altering the effective length
of the rod between pedal and clutch operating lever or
the clutch shaft end (see Figs. I and 4). To increase
the movement first slacken the locknut and screw out
the adjusting rod by means of its hexagon head. Finally
tighten the locknut.
In all cases adjustment must be such as to allow
this free movement to be felt by the pressure of one
finger on the clutch pedal.
To ascertain the amount of free movement, depress
the pedal until the resistance of the clutch springs is felt.
The 3/4-in. (19. 05 mm.) of free movement in the
pedal will give a minimum clearance of 3/32 – 1/8-in. (2. 38-
3.17 mm.) between the graphite release bearing and the
release lever plate, thus preventing continual rubbing of
the release bearing on the plate.

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Peter,
When I said the housing I was meaning the clutch cover assembly that bolts to the fly wheel.

I am sure I put the raised center section of the clutch plate towards the gearbox, I remember checking it to make sure, the raised section fits into the cover assembly and stops the plate sliding about too much. Wish I had taken a picture before I fitted it now just to be 100% sure, I’m doubting myself now.

The Somerset has a mechanical linkage and a carbon thrust bearing, this is where I am not sure if I have set the clearance correctly and if incorrect setting of the clearance would be causing my problem. At the moment the pedal is near the floor before it starts grinding and I feel feedback through the pedal. Is the thrust bearing maybe just touching the release leaver plate on the cover assembly but not releasing the clutch plate? So the thrust bearing is just sitting on the release plate white the cover assembly turns.

Should I remove the clutch pedal spring to set the clearance? What is the best way to set the clearance? I was having difficulty telling when I was feeling the resistance of the clutch springs. I have emailed you the manual, page 93 (Section E/1) under running adjustments explains the clearance I think it’s the same as the A70/90.

Could the thrust\release bearing not moving properly be causing the problem, was I supposed to put a little bit of grease at each side of the bearing where it fits into the forks so it moves smoothly?

Thanks for your help peter.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Thanks for your help Peter. I’ve just changed the clutch, one of the springs had come out the pressure plate, plate was different in that it only had four springs so maybe some aftermarket variety. Next problem is now when I push the clutch pedal I get a grinding noise and the clutch doesn’t work. Any ideas? I’m not sure of I’ve maybe not adjusted the clutch pedal adjustment rod properly or if it’s something to do with the release bearing. I changed the plate, housing and bearing with ones from club spares and I’m positive the plate was fitted the correct way round.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I’ve got a show in a few weeks and I don’t want to miss it.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Thanks peter, I’ve ordered a new cable and clutch etc from the counties spares. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Dave

[widd0wss0n]

Hi Peter,

Thanks for your reply.

Gear selection has never been smooth since I got the car, I have only done about 100 miles in it since I bought it, all testing miles. Reverse has always been a pig to get into, taking several attempts of falling into second before I get reverse, first was a little sticky, however when running the selection of higher gears was ok. After this happened I was putting it in and out of gear and First\second were stickier than normal. I also got stuck in reverse and it was not easy to get it back out again. The rattle does sound like its in the bell housing area. I also noticed that the clutch pedal adjustment rod is bent, could this have contributed to a clutch plate failing?

Dave

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