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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • in reply to: Brake bleeding #9917
    southernscouse
    Participant

    When first removing the stick jamming the pedal I do have pressure but after leaving it a short time pedal goes down to floor but can be quickly pumped up so I think this suggests air still in system so what’s peoples thoughts on the best method

    in reply to: Brake bleeding #9915
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Cheers No5 I did what you suggested but left it for 3days it worked I have pressure but pedal is low so pumped it up higher and replaced the stick will leave it a while
    I have no leaks
    But why this seems to work escapes me when all three methods I tried didn’t

    in reply to: Brake bleeding #9889
    southernscouse
    Participant

    In Austin manual it says when fitting the seals the end cap has to unscrewed
    Is this necessary if after removing the circlip and operating rod the whole assembly can be removed from this end
    The screwed on end cap is very tight and I was hoping not to disturb

    in reply to: Brake bleeding #9883
    southernscouse
    Participant

    I have received some information about problems with the slow return valve I think this is called the recuperation seal so will buy a kit and replace

    in reply to: Brake bleeding #9879
    southernscouse
    Participant

    I have now tried the vacuum type still no pressure at pedal
    Purchased a pressure type have firm pedal when connected to air but fails when released
    I have put over a litre of fluid through no the system
    I can get pedal pressure if I operate the pedal quickly and it will hold if I keep pressing but fails when released

    in reply to: Bleed nipples #9719
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Cheers for the info MikeN

    read all your posts on the Devon pickup makes me very jealous

    in reply to: Bleed nipples #9711
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Should have added it’s a 1954 Devon van thanks again

    in reply to: Zenith Carburetor parts supplier #9037
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Have you tried the Carburettor Hospital I got a rebuilt zenith from them about 5 years ago I think it was about £200

    in reply to: Fuel gauge #8861
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Thanks for the reply number 5 gives me somewhere to start

    in reply to: Commercial dash boards #8501
    southernscouse
    Participant

    My body work has been painted red but it has been brown at some time

    thanks for the info on the tow bar will be making one in the summer cheers

    in reply to: Commercial dash boards #8497
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Hi I have 1954 Devon van my dash looks original in that it’s rusty in places

    The main dash is black but the instrument panel is a dark brown colour with no attempt at wood grain

    have read your rebuild on the occ site you mention a tow bar any chance of more info

    tried signing up to the occ but get no reply. Cheers tom

    in reply to: Ignition timing #7963
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Thanks for that I will give it ago

    in reply to: Ignition timing #7959
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Well finally got the new radiator fitted and with the short drives I have taken the overheating seems to have stopped

    revs up instantly by my setting the mixture and ignition timing using a vacuum gauge but still kangaroos a bit when driving so changed the plug gaps from 18 thou to 20 it’s a lot better but has me thinking how large a gap I can go to considering it has electronic ignition

    in reply to: Ignition timing #7907
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Looked on eBay company that will do recore don’t mention extra cooling based in Herefordshire is this the one

    in reply to: Ignition timing #7903
    southernscouse
    Participant

    Took the carb off with intention of drilling the spacer then realised there was plenty of space to drill the neck of the manifold and no chance of swarth going into the intake because the carb was off

    set ignition to highest vacuum and also the mixture screw on the carb

    car runs starts on the first turn of the key and revs up quickly

    onthe first drive it was kangarooing a bit but calmed down at higher revs still got a overheating problem hope a new rad will sort that out

    any one got anything to add.  Cheers Tom

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)