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southernscouse
ParticipantHave you tried the Carburettor Hospital I got a rebuilt zenith from them about 5 years ago I think it was about £200
southernscouse
ParticipantThanks for the reply number 5 gives me somewhere to start
southernscouse
ParticipantMy body work has been painted red but it has been brown at some time
thanks for the info on the tow bar will be making one in the summer cheers
southernscouse
ParticipantHi I have 1954 Devon van my dash looks original in that it’s rusty in places
The main dash is black but the instrument panel is a dark brown colour with no attempt at wood grain
have read your rebuild on the occ site you mention a tow bar any chance of more info
tried signing up to the occ but get no reply. Cheers tom
southernscouse
ParticipantThanks for that I will give it ago
southernscouse
ParticipantWell finally got the new radiator fitted and with the short drives I have taken the overheating seems to have stopped
revs up instantly by my setting the mixture and ignition timing using a vacuum gauge but still kangaroos a bit when driving so changed the plug gaps from 18 thou to 20 it’s a lot better but has me thinking how large a gap I can go to considering it has electronic ignition
southernscouse
ParticipantLooked on eBay company that will do recore don’t mention extra cooling based in Herefordshire is this the one
southernscouse
ParticipantTook the carb off with intention of drilling the spacer then realised there was plenty of space to drill the neck of the manifold and no chance of swarth going into the intake because the carb was off
set ignition to highest vacuum and also the mixture screw on the carb
car runs starts on the first turn of the key and revs up quickly
onthe first drive it was kangarooing a bit but calmed down at higher revs still got a overheating problem hope a new rad will sort that out
any one got anything to add. Cheers Tom
southernscouse
ParticipantJust did a bit more reading on this it seems beat place to drill is the carb spacer anyone know what size bore I need
was thinking about a small brass tube glued in the spacer Thanks
southernscouse
ParticipantAnother method that’s pops up is using a vacuum gauge to set timing has anyone done this and can I tee into the vac pipe from the carb or do I have to drill the manifold if so were. Thanks
southernscouse
ParticipantThanks. MikeN have sent off to join that forum think l will try the dial gauge through the plug hole and mark the pulley then work out with a protractor to find 7 degree
southernscouse
ParticipantThanks for the replies
to Bruce the manual says there is a mark on the flywheel which can be seen through inspection hole on gearbox bell housing lhave no TDC marks on the engine pulley the dizzy has a ignition module with no lights.
To mikeN
have thought about the possible marking the engine pulley at tdc by watching piston and valve position then I would need some measurement for the correct timing
southernscouse
ParticipantHi Dave just read a post of yours to someone else in2020 about how to set the timing will give that a go. Thanks
southernscouse
ParticipantThanks for the reply have sent a email to GAT about cost
timing my Devon has always been a bit hit and miss it has electronic ignition so no points there are no marks on the front of the engine my method has been to get the engine running and then turn the dizzy to get the best result
southernscouse
Participantright i have gone ahead and bought one and because mine is positive earth it comes with a extra wiring diagram is there someone out there that i can email a sketch of my understanding as it relates to my austin devon wiring diagram any help would be great just do not want to damage any thing cheers tom
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