Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
It’s a core plug, I don’t think you can fit a new one with the engine in place. The gearbox doesn’t get in the way but the bulkhead will.
BTW, core plugs have got nothing to do with frost or freezing. The core plugs are simply there to fill the apertures in the cylinder block that are left during production after the removal of the sand core during the foundry casting process . Without the core the cylinder block would be solid iron without a water gallery.
Also, while you’ve got the core plugs out, you might want to get a bit of stiff wire, suitably bent and probe about to check the water gallery isn’t blocked . There should be free passage of water all the way around all 4 cylinders, top to bottom.
Greg, I made mine very cheaply. Very simple if you can work a Stanley knife and a steel rule. Its just a rectangle with 2 holes. I bought some 10mm (i think) thick rubber sheet from ebay.
I also made some, not original, but do the job, buffers for the top of the body . They definitely reduced the vibration and noise!
scroll down to the bottom of this page and you’ll see:
Alternatively , you can buy them here:
https://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Austin%201948-52%20A40.htm
Thanks for that Tom. Is your painted van black like the dashboard?
Regarding my tow bar. If you look on page 9 you can see some photos of it. It’s very simple. Just a 5 mm steel plate extension welded to the original truck rear bumper. Then drilled for the tow ball. I only tow a very light trailer and I don’t go very far when towing. It hasn’t fallen off yet.
Embarrassingly, when I first fitted it I made the extension plate too small so the ball was too high which meant I couldn’t get the spare wheel out.
I think it was Hereford radiators. I rang them up and asked them if they could do it and they said yes.
I bought a new radiator for mine from a company that advertise on eBay. In Wales I think. Can’t remember now. They managed to fit an extra row of tubes in it to improve cooling. I have a digital temperature gauge that comes off the thermostat housing. It rarely goes over 80deg. My owners handbook says operating temp is 73 deg.
southernscouse,
Your 54 van and my 54 truck are obviously very similar. I have a thread running on the “OldClassic Car” forum about some of the work ive done to mine. If you look on the second page you might be surprised to see being discussed the very things you mention above. I found it impossible to observe the cranshaft pulley with the engine in place.
Here is the link.
If the link doesn’t work its on the forum under “all our old cars” then look for Austin A40 Devon pick up” about half way down the page. You can see that I set mine to 7 deg. Seem ok
Mike
Further to my last post. If you have not yet purchased some 17″ tyres you might be interested to see the dramatic difference that I found in the diameter between 16″ and the 17″ tyres that came on my truck. There is a picture here. Also shows where they rubbed.
Mike
When I fitted electronic ignition to my 54 pick up a couple of years ago I made a protractor from aluminium (don’t need a full circle just a segment) and fitted it to the starting handle for the reason you state. I stuck a bit of masking tape to the front bumper and made a mark with a biro. This enabled me to find tdc and the before tdc position. I fitted a timing light on one of the terminals to the ignition coil. I can’t remember now exactly how you wire it but I just Googled it and it was very simple. I can’t remember the before tdc I set it to. Maybe 5 or 7 degrees (whatever it said in the book). Ive done about 9000 miles since then and haven’t looked at it since then. I get around 32-34 mpg so I don’t think it can’t be far off. I think more experienced people set it by sound and feel without any of the above but I’m not that clever.
I couldn’t find anyone who did 17″ tyres for my A40 pickup when I was looking a couple of years ago. I didn’t want them anyway because the old ones I was replacing rubbed when cornering. Especially cornering on a bumpy road.
So I bought a set of 16″ Somerset wheels from the club and did it that way. Also fitted a Somerset differential. Surprisingly the original Speedo reads spot on according to my satnav. Now done 9000 miles with this arrangement.
I think they might have fitted B series engines to at least some of our vehicles. I have a 1956 Austin A40 commercials , vans and pick ups, “Running and maintenance instructions” manual that clearly shows a later B Series engine (albeit only 1200cc) and describes its slightly different maintenance requirements. The suspension, brakes and shock absorbers appear to be the same as earlier cars.
So , it wasn’t exactly a massive consensus for or against. But it’s an hour later and I’ve just been out and attacked the engine with the torque wrench.
None of the nuts moved. One rocker was maybe a thou tight.
Good excuse to go out after dinner for a “test drive”.
Thanks for the replies.
Yes, I fitted a new radiator with an extra row of tubes. Also the water gallery in the head and block were thoroughly cleaned.
I Also fitted a digital electronic temperature gauge to the cylinder head thermostat housing and an electric fan. The engine temperature now is usually 75-78 deg. C. on a level road. The fan is set to come on at 84 ish. It only comes on if im stuck in traffic.
I’m going to fit a temperature gauge to the radiator header tank soon (I think that’s the correct location for it) which I expect will be a couple of degrees cooler than the head.
Btw. The electric fan has reduced the noise in the cab which is nice and also released the extra half a horsepower (I imagine).
Ive recently done this on my pickup after its respray. Yes, its a right pain!
I had several attempts as you describe. In the end I slid all the bits in from the top. Then I think I fitted the door catch loosely, Then I fit the screws in the long right angle channel, leaving out the one at the very bottom. Then I think I slid the long straight channel down at the front. You have to push the quarter light into the long channel at this stage and force it down without scratching the paint. Finally do up the T headed screws that secure the lower ends of the 2 channels.
I also took the felts out of my channels so that I could re paint them before fitting. This made it even harder because when i refitted them, they had fluffed up a bit so the glass was now very stiff in the channels. A very awkward job.
Also, I stupidly waxoyled the inside of the doors before I did all this which meant I got covered in the stuff whilst trying to work out how to put it together.
Mike.
Recent Comments