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The brake nipples I replaced on my 54 pickup 3 months ago were 3/8 X 24 UNF . I was surprised to find that the old ones (with rusty rounded off hexagons) that I took out of the cylinders were flat ended with a little steel ball that does the sealing. The replacement items that I bought off ebay had the more commons pointed ends and they went straight in and sealed perfectly.
I would be advised by the machine shop. They might (but probably wont) prefer doing it with the flywheel still attached to the cranshaft.
A few weeks ago I replaced the engine on my A40 with a 1500cc B-series engine. I expected the thermostat housing would fit… It didnt.
Andrew, My pick up is currently running on 5.00/5.25 x 16 Avon Tourists which are 145mm wide. I can see see evidence of rubbing on my inner wings where they have touched on full lock . The Austone taxi tyres are apparently around 40mm wider (185mm) . Have you experienced any rubbing on your truck?
Thanks, Mike
I’ve recently had the engine/gearbox out of my pickup ( which is like half a Devon) and replaced the clutch. The book says you can get it out after removing the radiator. Which you can, Just about. However, It becomes a lot easier if you take the radiator grill out as well. You have to hang the engine from the front lifting eye only, so the back end of the gearbox hangs down. It’s quite a long job with lots of bits to undo.
Hello Greg, I obtained mine from the club new spares scheme. Now sadly no longer extant. Have a look on the “simply bearings” website. Look at “all bearings” then angular contact bearings. Enter the dimensions. They have a vast selection of products.
I’m surprised they are tapered. They should be angular contact ball bearings shouldn’t they? As fitted to many cars of this age to take up the side forces encountered in car wheels. Are you planning on replacing them with common deep groove ball bearings? I don’t think ordinary DG ball bearings would be suitable for a car wheel application. You can use them in motorbikes because the forces act in a different direction when cornering. BTW, I replaced the wheel bearings on my A40 last year (simple job) . It suddenly became a lot quieter in the cab!
In my opinion it’s pointless obtaining a used 70 year old engine and expecting it to be useable . Unless you are extremely fortunate you will always end up disappointed. Especially if You buy something and fit it and then have to remove it again because it turns out to be worn out. You might as well rebuild what you have. All the parts can be found with a bit of searching.
Whenever I’ve wanted to know the answer to this question for various old vehicles I’ve owned over the years, I’ve contacted the classic oil manufacturer direct. Email or phone the technical department . They are always happy to help. They make the stuff so they know what is best. Make sure you tell them if you have fitted a non standard oil filter.
I had a Morris Minor. Admittedly with an electric pump. Anyway it would pump fuel to the carb. I would drive off. After a while the car would splutter to a halt. It turned out to be rusty debris from the fuel tank almost but not quite blocking the fuel pipe. Maybe try blowing down your fuel pipe and see what happens.
So, reporting back.
Friday evening I filled up with a tankfull Shells finest. V power! The difference was quite noticeable. My truck immediately ran much smoother and seems generally much nicer to drive. Saturday was a running day at the miniature railway society that I belong to. I had 4 bags of coal in the back and towed a trailer with a heavy locomotive. I could hear no pinking even with this heavy load . So that’s a good result. Thanks for the advice.
Ok thanks for the replies. I Shall start shopping at Shell or Esso for E5 and stop buying E10 from the supermarket!
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