[1952a40]

I recommend that you re torque the head bolts in the correct sequence according to the shop manual and using a torque wrench set to the recommended torque setting

by using the torque wrench you will get the same tension on all the studs and you can not over tighten them with the torque wrench

do it when the engine is cold

[1952a40]

Many thanks for your observations and description

i will have to take a closer look into the master cylinder for the holes you describe in the piston. I don’t recall seeing any but will look again next time I dismantle it.

I’m not quite clear on your description of the step/rebate around the inside diameter of the seal. If you have a picture or could sketch it out , maybe you could email it to me.

glevear@aol.com

a picture is worth a thousand words

thanks again for your effort to help I was at the limit of my knowledge and hoping for as much help as I can get from all the club members as Austin knowledge is thin on the ground here in Oregon

[1952a40]

When reassembling the head do a dry assembly first without the gasket in place
This gives you the opportunity to make sure that the studs have not been streatched to the point the the nuts will get tight by bottoming out on the threads
Now disassemble and insert the gasket (with or without gasket goo) and then reassemble and add lube to the studs nuts and washers so that the torque applied is truly imparted to the stud and not absorbed by friction on the threads
When all done retighten all nuts as specified then run the engin for a short while then retighten again. Run the engine again and retighten again each time at the specified setting
You can’t retighten to many times
This method assumes you have made sure that the head and block are both flat before you started the assembly process

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