Forums General Counties Cars Discussion Rear hub bearings

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • #1439
    malcolm622
    Participant

    Hi
    Due to oil leaks I am about to change both rear hub gaskets and bearings along with the nose seal on my 1954 Somerset.
    Before I start, any tips or tricks and are any special tools needed, or is it just a case of following the workshop manual?
    I don’t have a press, so can I carefully tap the new hub bearings in and how critical is the measurement of the outer face of the bearing to be protruding beyond the face of the hub?
    Any advice would be gratefully received
    Malcolm

    #1441
    number5
    Participant

    Hi there Malcolm,
    If you are going to change the outer axle flange seals, have a good look at the rear bearing seals. Could be prudent to replace them as well. As for the bearings protruding out past the bearing housing, that should not happen with the correct numbered bearing. A70 and A90 did not have the small section O rings that are often associated with modern seal kits purchased, which are fitted around the groove created by the rounded lip of the outer bearing diameter. For 50 years, all I have I have done when replacing the axle flange gasket is.if the seal is still OK, wash it clean with turps, dry, then apply some non hardening gasket sealer.

    With the new rear seal, when I did not have my press, I used a flat bit of steel placed over it, gently tapping it in, with the outer studs on hardwood timber.

    With new bearings, never hit the bearing with a hammer, always use a brass dolly to tap it back into place, only applying tapping the bearing on the outer case.

    As for the main differential pinion seal, BEFORE you remove the nut, the tension of which is crucial, and on A70/90 diffs, this is only around 6~8 INCH LBS FORCE, ensuring that excessive crush is not applied to the two tapered rollers on the pinion shaft. This does not include any drag created by the lip of the seal on the tail shaft hub.I suspect that it would be similar to an A40, but you need to check in your manual.

    Before starting, spray the thread with some “nut release agent” to loosen any binding, giving it time to travel into the nut. After peeling back the lock tab washer that secures on one of the nut flats, then using your brass dolly, gently tap on each of the nut flats, progressively going around in a circular motion.

    Then, starting at 2 inch lbs, check the force required to LOOSEN the nut. At this setting, the trip on the tension wrench should activate immediately when applied. Then increase by 1 inch lb settings, until the nut cracks loose, which should not be more than 10 inch lbs. Note the setting.

    Before refitting the nut and tightening, thoroughly clean the splines on the pinion and tail shaft hub, and both the pinion and nut threads. Make sure the lock tab nut washer and mating surfaces are both smooth and even, and apply a smear of grease to them. Also apply a smear of grease around the surface where the seal seats on the tail shaft hub. If needed, adjust the spline tabs on the lock tab washer for a better fit using long nose plyers, then fit it and the nut. I then increase the increase the release setting by 0.5 inch lbs, and tighten the nut. Secure the washer tab against one of the nut flats.

    The reason for the grease is to ensure that the least resistance is felt by the nut. Even when doing my own rear assembly on the bench a few months ago, even the pressure of the seal had an affect.

    I have used the above a couple of times over the years, when doing an “in car” diff seal replacement. Hope it assists in some small way.

    All the best-Peter

    #1443
    number5
    Participant

    Malcolm- Two things I forgot to mention.

    Although the bearings are oil lubricated, I always pack the rears just like the front bearings. Do this after installing the seals and bearings, and it will ensure that they will be well lubed from the start

    With the nut, not sure what you use to remove and tighten it, but I have made a special socket. I read on the Counties pages at one time about a special motor bike spanner that is the correct size. Perhaps you could check this with the counties spares people. I always use a general thread lock compound on the nut as well. Don’t forget to bed the washer tab onto one of the nut flats, or perhaps even two of them.

    One final thing is to check the tightness of the studs. On both A70 and 90 wheel studs, over the years I have had these loosen. Use two base and 7/16″ BSF??? (perhaps not the same as early A70/90’s) and with one nut flush with the end of the stud, place the stud onto a steel plate and use a very blunt chisel, carefully spread the groove at the rear of the stud. Perhaps though, later model may have had the rear of the stud welded. This process should also be used to check the tightness
    of the front studs, though in 50 years I have only ever experienced the loosening with the rears, because of the “driving” force

    All the best-Peter

    #1445
    malcolm622
    Participant

    Hi Peter
    Many thanks for your incredibly comprehensive and helpful reply. If time allows I intend to try to tackle the rear hubs today
    Malcolm

    #1467
    malcolm622
    Participant

    Hi Peter
    I’m a little confused as both the workshop manual and the torque settings page on this forum say the differential bevel nut should be tightened to 140-150 1lb foot.
    With kind regards
    Malcolm

    #1469
    number5
    Participant

    Hi Malcolm,

    Sorry if I have confused you, but with my A90 coupe differential, it is the same as the Healey 100-4, and also an A70, with the preload of the two interposing roller bearings not exceeding 6~8 inch lbs. This is the setting I have used in past years, without any hassles thus far. This is achieved by tightening the nut with a 5 lb weight on a string, suspended on a 2 inch radius on the shaft, which, with this weight, is just sufficient to allow the the shaft to turn.

    Were you able to check the loosening tension as I previously mentioned, for this should give an indication, although its not an exact reading. If not yet done, clean around the area of the shaft where the nut is, then pry back the folded tab/s from the face of the nut. Spray with an appropriate “nut release” agent and allow time for it to act.

    Then, use a, INCH LB tension wrench, and starting from perhaps 2 inch lbs, see if this moves the nut. Increase the setting until you get a figure that actually starts the nut to turn.

    Once, when several thousand miles from home, I replaced the seal in a friends garage, without any means of checking tensions, and I only had to hand pressure to release, and tighten the nut.

    Please though, I would suggest you discuss this with others. Where are, in the UK, as I might be able pass on a name.

    Regards-Peter.

    #1471
    number5
    Participant

    Malcolm-see if you can log on to YOUTUBE, and look for “How to set up Ford 8.8″ Differential VLOG#15”.

    Although not a Austin, it is very similar, showing how to achieve the inch lb setting for that diff.

    Hope it assists. If you want, send me a note to my mailbox, pjhackney@optusnet.com.au
    it could be easier to correspond.

    Regards-Peter

    #1473
    number5
    Participant

    Malcolm–The 6~8 inch lbs is applicable to a differential that has already be set up. Also, this is the figure that does not include the resistance of the seal. In the video of the Ford diff, the chap uses a bar across two of the flange nuts, which when replacing a seal in-situe, does not need to be done. In the video, the pinion is fitted without the crown ass’y. When you are replacing the seal, the pinion teeth will be seated against the crown teeth, holding it against turning, with the handbrake on.

    As I originally mentioned, I used a figure slightly above the 6~8 inch lbs so as to include for the resistance of the new seal.

    Obviously, with all parts thoroughly clean, smear some grease on the threads, as well behind the nut to ensure that the least resistance is offered.

    It would be good if you could talk to a company that does such repairs, and ask them if they would be able to comment on how to undertake a seal change, without the need to remove the whole assembly. I would not be at all offended if some one was to say “he is talking rubbish”, as this is the way I have done them over many years.

    All the best-Peter

    #1475
    number5
    Participant

    Hi Malcolm,

    Speaking with a fellow owner this morning, he suggested that you could follow this means to change your leaking seal, which he used a few years ago,and since has driven around 20,000 miles:-

    1—Jack up the car and chock the wheels.
    2—Remove the rear diff connection bolts and drop off the tail shaft.
    3—Mark with precision a small grind spot on the front of the nut and matching points on the shaft and front face of the hub. A centre punch point could be used, may on the hardened shaft, it may nit indent adequately enough to see.
    4—Carefully undo the nut counting the turns to do so.
    5—Before removing the hub, ensure the matching marks are still visible. perhaps hi-lite them with a white permanent marker.
    6—Remove the seal plate carrier and replace the seal.
    7—Lightly oil the hub seal area and refit the seal plate and screws. Do not tighten.
    8—Refit the hub with the alignment marks, and wiggle the seal so that it centrally aligned on the hub as best possible.
    9—Tighten the seal plate screws.
    10–Refit the lock tab washer and nut, screw in the exact number of turns tighten to match the marked points.
    11–Fold over the locking washer flat onto the nut.

    All the best-Peter

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