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Hello all, I am doing a kingpin replacement on my 1948 Austin 16.
I knew this was going to be a hard task, but I have a query. The replacement set I bought has cotter pins that have a part circle cut away, and do not have the taper that I am used to. I don’t want to try and knock out the old cotter pin if it is designed just to be loosened off a bit, and stay in place while the pin is pulled out.
Can anyone confirm the design of the original cotter pins?
Any advice about the M.O. for this job will be greatly appreciated.
Regards to all, Ken
Thank you for the copy of the relevant pages of the front hub. I can see that the cotter in the picture is the same as the new ones I have. i.e. with a part circle removed to allow for the swivel pin to pass by. That means no need to remove the cotter pin, just loosen the nut and a gentle tap on both sides will do, I hope.
Hello Ken,
When I did mine I removed the bottom welch plug from the bottom of the swivel axle and pushed it out, if you are going to replace the bushes the plug needs to be removed any way.
Both of mine were worn so were replaced and reamed to size.
Hello Merlin,
Thank you for your comments.
I have removed the welch plug as you suggested, before I go any further, are you saying that the swivel pin must be pulled, or pushed up only?
I was intending to knock it downwards and out. What do you think?
Thanks again, Ken
Up to you of course, but you’ll now have to replace the welch plug, since it keeps in the oil or grease that keeps the pin lubricated (and keeps out the dirt) – and the manual is clear that the pin should be pulled out, upwards, with a puller.
It’s typically the pins that wear, rather than the bronze bushes, even though the pins are made of harder material on the face of it. The reason is that the pins, if not kept lubricated, will rust and wear away, the rust being softer than the bronze bushes.
Good luck!
Hello Ken,
Sorry I’ve been away, seeing that the pin is parallel it could go either way.
The welch plug is easy to replace and should be in the king pin kit, I replaced the bushes on mine as it seemed worthwhile when it was apart. (If the plugs are missing they are easy to get on Ebay)
You will off course need a reamer to fit the bushes so if that’s a problem and they are ok leave them alone.
Hello all, Unable to locate a puller, I was forced to knock the pin downwards and out.
It was a slow process but went quite well. Studying the bushes, I could see they were quite worn and had in fact been put in wrong, as the grease hole in the bushes didn’t align with the grease nipples. Being unable to get lube in the correct place was the cause of that swivel pin being worn out. Leaving the bushes in was no longer an option and it wasn’t too difficult to get them out with the correct drifts.
Getting the new bushes in was straightforward enough, but I had to drill holes to align with the ho;e on the axle. It is important that if anyone has to do that, the holes must dissect the small spiral grease channel that is on the inside of the bush cylinder.
No garage or workshop near me has a reamer so I bought an adjustable one that was the size range I needed. Time-consuming job but when the pins slide in, very rewarding.
So I am now at the rebuild stage and am putting my brake shoes back on. When I dismantled them at the start, a small keyway-type piece fell to the floor and I just can’t work out where it should go. It is a small trapezium-shaped piece of metal, about the thickness of the brake shoe web, It is about 22mm long and 10mm deep. there are two cut-out corners on one long side and it is not shown on my exploded drawing of a front wheel brake,
Can anyone help me with identifying this piece and where it should be fitted?
Thank you
Pete
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