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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)
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  • in reply to: A40 Somerset wipers #5567
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave,

    Many thanks for your message.

    I knew that if anyone would know the answer to this, it would be you. I am pleased that there is nothing wrong with it.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Kind regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset steering idler #5415
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Peter,

    Many thanks for your message.

    Apart from the stub axle, I have replaced the king pins as a complete kit that was supplied by Ray. I have replaced all of the bushes, the front springs, track rod ends and ball joints, wheel bearings, cylinders, brake shoes and loads of other worn parts on the front end, so I will not be replacing or trying anything else at the wheel end. The only things that I haven’t replaced are the steering box, idler and the tube that runs down the inside of the steering column. I’ve spent a fortune on this car and probably haven’t had more than 500 miles of enjoyment from it in the four years I have had it. It has had broken rear springs, gear change cable failure, fuel pump failure and carburettor replaced (several times) as well as having things stolen from it while in storage, including a brand new/old stock water pump!. It still has running issues so I feel that I have finished spending on the steering now. Next year, if my health hasn’t finished me off, I may remove the head and attack the bad running problems that it has had since I purchased it.

    Many thanks for your tips and help.

    Warmest regards and best wishes.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset steering idler #5411
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Peter.

    Many thanks for your message.

    I think you misread my last post. I said that after topping it up, I went for a ten mile drive. This morning, I checked it and it was dry and the level is still at the threads from when I topped it up. I didn’t say it was empty again. Saying it was dry meant that it was dry on the outside, not the inside.

    I said was when I purchased the car, the steering box, shock absorbers and the idler were all empty, there was no grease in the ball joints and very little in the king pins. When the car was stripped for a rebuild, nothing was topped up again. I don’t think that car had seen a grease gun in decades.

    This is the first Austin I have had since my A60 in 1981. From memory, that was fairly heavy but I cannot remember if it was as heavy, or more heavy, than my Somerset. I know that it is heavier than my friend’s A55 mark one but it is lighter than another friend’s A50. They seem to vary immensely. I do know that it is a thousand times heavier than a 1937 Packard 120! The A55 mark one is now on it’s third set of king pins, the first replacement set being fitted when the car was four years old, so to still have the original set on your car, I consider you to be very fortunate.

    As for the Austin Healey,  I know nothing about them, other than they are very expensive!

    I did, at one point, consider having electric power steering fitted to the Somerset but because of the column gearchange, it is not an easy option. As I mentioned previously, I don’t know if the steering is supposed to self-centre after manoeuvres

    Thanks again for your help and advice

    Warmest regards and best wishes.

    Robin

     

     

    in reply to: A40 Somerset steering idler #5407
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Peter.

    Many thanks for your message.

    Since I purchased my Austin a few years ago, Dave Whyley has given me much advice and has sold me parts to improve my Austin further so I have always trusted what he says and still do.

    I think that when my Austin was restored prior to my ownership, a lot of parts were removed from the car, emptied, cleaned, refitted, but not topped up again. The car had an empty steering box, empty shock absorbers, no grease in the ball joints and now I discovered, an empty idler. Everything else was topped up as I went along and made the discoveries, apart from the idler. I topped it up yesterday as per the advice of Dave Whyley and went for a ten mile drive. I have just checked the idler and it is completely dry and the fluid it still at the treads so thankfully, it doesn’t appear to have a leak.

    Replacing the king pins, topping up the steering box, lubricating the felt pad via the steering wheel boss and topping up the idler has made the steering a little bit lighter but it is still heavier than I remember them from the 70s. I cannot remember if the steering wheel should self-centre after turning a corner but mine never has. Anyway, the car is now useable again.

    With my sincere thanks and warmest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset steering idler #5403
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave,

    Many thanks for your message. I hunted high and low in both the service manual and the instruction book and couldn’t find the type of lubricant required for the idler anywhere but I cleanly missed it, hence my post.

    I have been told several different types of lubricant for the idler from engine oil to shock absorber oil but never grease! I took the square plug out and dipped it with a drinking straw, hence I knew it was empty. I will use exactly what you suggest, Dave, as I already have some of that. I have used grease in the king pins and ball joints. Thanks as ever for your help and advice.

    With my sincere thanks and warmest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset king pin bush reamers #4679
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave,

    Many thanks for your message.

    I already had those thoughts about a wheel cylinder honing tool. I have got one and when I looked at it, I wasn’t confident that it would have been 100% successful. Cleaning it wouldn’t be an issue as I have a large ultrasonic parts cleaning tank.

    Ray told me that he had a set of reamers that I could hire but they didn’t arrive with the kit and I was never able to speak to Ray again to find out what happened to them.

    I have never seen a set of Austin reamers on ebay, but my local engineering works have got two sets of 18G 64/65 that they purchased at Newark auto jumble in 2019 that they purchased very cheaply, along with several tools for the A30/A35 and the ADO16 models. My car is the first one they have used them on. I will tell them how much they sell for and maybe they can earn some money by selling one set on ebay.

    This small company does a lot of work on Austin A30/A35,  A55/A60 and Morris 1000 and Oxford Farina models and do a lot of king pins on many different makes and models.. I took the parts and one hub to them and they have reamed one side for me and charged me £20.00, which I was more than happy with. They even had a genuine BMC spring removal tool which they loaned to me. I am hoping to refit the suspension in the next few days so I can turn the car round and do the other side so I can have my lift back and finish my wife’s Nissan.

    The biggest problem for the guys doing my reaming for me was removing all the rust off the genuine new/old stock king pin set that I purchased from Ray just before he sadly passed away. They were quite a mess really. There were cork washers, cutter pins and grease nipples missing from the kit but thankfully, these guys had some in stock. Obviously I had nobody at the club to contact at the time when the missing parts were discovered. It doesn’t really matter now.

    If a parts service resumes in the New Year. That will be good news for the members. I have an engine issue with my car but there is no point stripping it down at the moment in case I end up with an ornament again.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Kindest regards

    Robin

     

    in reply to: A40 Somerset king pin bush reamers #4479
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Peter.

    Many thanks for your message. Thank you also for the advice of doing them tight with oil. I don’t remember doing that when I did the king pins on my Austin Seven, but it was a long time ago!

    I did consider a cylinder honer as I have one that I purchased years ago  when I was unable to obtain wheel cylinders for my Vauxhall 12/6.  I still have more work to do removing the rust from the new king pins. Ray obviously had them in stock for a long time and they have quite a lot of surface rust on them.

    The other thing that I considered was to buy some adjustable expanding reamers and gently using those. I have three grades of grinding paste and I suspect the ultra fine will be most suitable.

    With regards to cleaning up afterwards, I am meticulous about cleaning everything that I work on. I have a small parts washer so this will be easy to do.  When it is reassembled, everything will be as clean as the bodywork! I need to get the job finished so I can free up my hoist to work on my wife’s Figgy.

    Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

    Kindest regards and best wishes.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4321
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi again Dave,

    Just to let you know that I dropped the bowl from the carb, popped in a tin, filled it with fuel and left it. After four hours, the base of the tin was barely moist. However, the outside of the bowl was very wet all round, suggesting to me that the bowl is either porous or has a fine hairline crack. The area around the emulsion block was dry. I decided to try the other three bowls that I have. One has a tiny hole in the bottom, one has a small crack around the emulsion block and the other seems to be fuel tight. I need to put this bowl in my ultrasonic tank and change the jets, non return valve, slow running jet and ball valve for the correct parts. This bowl is jetted for a Vauxhall Wyvern which also uses a Zenith 30-VIG carb. I am hoping after three years, it may FINALLY cure this fault. Just the new king pins to fit, a decoke to perform and an MOT to obtain!

    Thanks for your help advice and patience with my fuel issues.

    Warmest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4319
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave.

    Many thanks for your reply.

    I am aware of the differences between the two models and the carburettor used on each. The ball valve on my Zenith carb is in a tube next to the slow running jet, which is present and correct.

    If I leave to car standing after a run or when leaving a show, it usually starts straight away, albeit sometimes needing a little choke.

    I have done a compression test and number three cylinder is around 20lb lower than 1,2 and 4. This is why, on the advice of Graham Potts, that I am removing the head over the winter to perform a decoke. If I do a couple of runs totalling around 30 miles, or I start it and just move it three or four times, number three plug soots up. It is not wet and not only, just jet black with the other three plugs remaining in perfect condition.

    The engine does not use any oil (it drips a little) and it doesn’t use any water at all. It doesn’t smoke, rattle or knock and the oil pressure goes straight up to around 50psi on start up from cold, dropping to 30psi when running hot. In fact, the oil pressure is normally up before the engine starts. I have checked and double checked the tappets. The plugs are gapped at 18. It has had a lumpy tick over since I got it, regardless of what carb I had fitted.

    I will do as you suggest tomorrow as a final act and report back but I have tried three different carbs and this fault has been present on each one.

    If I cannot cure this problem at all after doing everything I need to do over the winter months, this problem may well become somebody else’s problem, because I am at the end of my tether with it. I have managed to solve the mountain of other problems this car has had but even after the first 35 years of my working life spent in the motor trade, I have never had a problem like this that I cannot solve!!

    Finally Dave, please see pages 18/ 19 of the new Practical Classics magazine and the picture of the club stand at the NEC!

    Thank you again Dave for taking the trouble with this problem.

    Kindest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4315
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Peter.

    Many thanks for your message.

    The ball valve is a little screws into the bowl beside the slow running jet. When it is removed, you can hear it moving if you shake it, so it is still in place.

    I have had this problem and other bad running problems with my Somerset since we bought it in July 2018 and I am just about at the end of my tether with it. I have tried different carbs, different fuel pumps, renewed the fuel lines and swapped the fill her cap but have never been able to cure the problem.

    A chap who I met at a show has a Somerset as a daily driver. He told me that he purchased a brand new Zenith carb for his car and it STILL ran badly. He cured his bad running by fitting an SU carburettor and electric fuel pump. I am seriously considering going down this route as I have tried just about everything else. Thankfully my car has got a good battery which considering how long it winds over before it starts, is a good thing! Failing that, I will open up the bonnet every day and prime the pump to fill the bowl. When I remove the head over the winter, I will strip the carb down and put it in my ultrasonic tank. (I have a fluid in the tank that I use when I overhaul clock movements). Then I will completely rebuild it myself instead of sending it to an expert again.

    Thanks very much for getting in touch.

    Kindest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4311
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi again Dave.

    Many thanks for your advice regarding the fuel pump. I followed your instructions to the letter and fitted the pump yesterday. I removed the top off the pump today and it was full. Before attempting to start the car, I dropped the bowl from the carb and it was empty, despite replacing the emulsion block and gasket. Therefore, I think that I must admit defeat and throw in the towel with this one! I will search for a good or new/old stock carburettor over the winter months while I have the head off.

    Thank you so very much for all of your help and advice.

    Warmest regards and best wishes.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4307
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave.

    The instructions that you have just provided are pretty much what I did when I rebuilt the pump. It pumps through with the primer lever perfectly and doesn’t appear to be a problem in service. However, I have another pump and a couple of new repair kits in a box of items that I purchased from a former Somerset owner. I will rebuild another pump later today, following your advice to the letter and will fit it to the car and see what happens. We’ve had this car for over three years and it has never run properly which is why I am pulling the head off over winter as the compression is low on number three cylinder. It is my aim to have a Somerset ready for next season that I dare to drive more than 20 miles away from home!

    I will post the update once I have fitted another rebuilt pump.

    Thanks again for your help and advice.

    Kindest regards.

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4303
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi again Dave.

    I have tried everything that you have suggested. I replaced the emulsion block with one that has a super smooth surface and fitted a new gasket yesterday (Thursday) morning. Prior to starting the car this afternoon, I took the top and filter off the fuel pump and there was fuel in the bowl. I pulled the starter and it took 9 seconds for the fuel to fill the carb and the engine to start. I think that I will have  to search for a new/old stock carburettor over the winter as despite having this carb professionally overhauled, it is clearly not performing as it should do.

    On the advice of Graham, I am taking the head off over winter in an attempt to cure long term poor running and to stop the number three plug from sooting up.  I still have the torque down instructions that you gave to me over three years ago when I spoke to you regarding poor running. Over this winter, I am HOPING to make this car run as it should do for the first time in my ownership!

    Thanks for all your help.

    Kindest regards

    Robin

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4285
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave,

    Many thanks for your reply.

    I have several emulsion blocks so I will do exactly as you suggest. Strangely enough, I always tighten all nuts, bolts and screws a little at a time, just like I would a cylinder head. I will (hopefully) be doing this job tomorrow. It is so strange how I have tried three carbs on this car and none, including the specialist rebuilt carb cured the problem, which is why I tried the pump.

    When I rebuilt the petrol pump, I had to stretch the diaphragm slightly to make it fit. I then pumped paraffin through it as recommended in the service manual.

    I will post my findings on the forum once I have taken the action you have recommended.

    Thanks again Dave.

    Kindest regards

    Robin

     

    in reply to: A40 Somerset fuel drain back. #4277
    charlie-farlie
    Participant

    Hi Dave

    Many thanks for your reply. I didn’t actually rebuild the carb myself. I sent it away and had it rebuilt by a specialist. I didn’t consider the carburettor because the car has had this fault since we bought it three years ago.  I recently purchased a box of carbs, rebuild kits,  gaskets and a large box of other  pieces from a former Somerset owner, so rather than mess about sending the carburettor back to the company who rebuilt it, I will replace the emulsion block gasket myself and see what happens.

    Thanks again for your help and advice.

    Robin

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)